Construction details, Hot Patterns jacket

At this point the jacket back, cuffs and pockets have been constructed and topstitched. Topstitching through the heavy multiple twill layers went slow and made my fingers ache, but I like how it looks so far.



In looking at the pictures I got to check on the stitching of the pocket it looks a little puckery.



I added a back stay to give the dropped shoulder area a little more support, just used a piece of washed muslin.

Next up is the bound buttonholes but I have to decide on buttons first.

Changes, part II

So my son had a great time Saturday. He wore his father's vintage tie and clip and I was proud of how he handled himself.

There was a photo session before they headed out to dinner where the parents could ooh and aahh at the kids.

Here he is with his best friend, they have been since kindergarten.



Here they are at 5,



they are still adorable, don't you think?

Changes

For the first time this year, my son who is a high school junior is going to the Homecoming dance. This summer he cut his hair, he became a texting expert, has joined clubs and his social circle has expanded. Wow. Today I need to go buy him a jacket and dress shoes since he outgrew them and then I will probably end up playing chauffeur on Saturday since his friends are going to be taking pictures, going out to dinner and then going to the dance (and believe me I'm glad it will be me doing the driving).



A couple of weeks ago my brother and his family came to visit and I had the inmense pleasure of spending time with my nephew. He is the cutest! Last time I saw him he wasn't walking on his own yet, this time around everyone was exhausted chasing after him...yeap I remember those days.



Let's hear it for the boys!

IK Spring 2008 Flutter Sleeve Cardigan FO

I started this project back in March and it took longer to finish that I anticipated, but isn't always the case with knitting?

While there are no sleeves to set in there are a lot of other details, like the front bands which are knitted separately and then sewn in, as well as the sleeve bands and the tabs. I lengthened the bodice above the waist to let the ribbing fall on my natural waist (I added 1 in to bodice and front bands). I also used a larger size to cast on the skirt and reduced enough stitches above the waist to knit a smaller size.



The buttonholes turned out a tad to big for my buttons so I'm going to crotchet around the openings to close them in, I spent all day yesterday trying to keep the cardigan closed; it really is not meant to be worn unopened.

The yarn is Elann Bamboo Fusion, which as the name implies is a bamboo blend which is very drapey and feels really good against the skin.



I'm very happy with the outcome, I like the color and I love the sleeves. After you invest so much time in a project it feels great when it turns out well :-)

Thank you! Thank you!

Well, I decided on using number 2 although the dark blue was a very strong second. What decided me was extending the wearability of this jacket, I wanted at least one more jacket besides the denim one I own that could be used with almost every other outfit.

Suggestions anyone?

First excuse my poorly executed sample but I would like your opinion as to which color way would look better on the Hot Patterns jacket.

Number 1 and 3 are a slightly different shade of light tan. Number 2 matches the fabric pretty well. Four and five are deep blues in different shades that also pick up the colors in the lining.

My original idea was the lighter tans but now I'm not sure. I plan to hand topstitch on the band and edges. I'm using pearl cottton embroidery floss with 4 strands together.

Suggestions anyone?

Hot patterns Wrapture Jacket - continued

So the twill is cut and so is the lining and today I fused the interfacing. Did you know that fusing interfacing is the step I most dislike about sewing? This is the point where my construction progress stops while I brace myself, silly isn't? Picking the right interfacing makes me nervous; unless one makes the fabric as stiff as a board and the other causes no effect all the others are in between and so you need to go with a feeling...I think it is the engineer in me that rebels in this non-logical selection. It is not that I'm not educated on interfacing I have read and keep reading about it. Anyways I tested two both from Fashion Sewing Supply and I went with the Pro-Weft fusible. I like how it applied and now this step is done. I have also used Pam's tricot and have been very happy with it.

And continuing with the interfacing topic. Have you notice that the word "interfacing" has never been mentioned on Project Runway? There is no mention of buying it or using it? Well I figure the producers think is a term that non-sewers would have no clue as to what it is. But it could produce drama, what about if they fuse it to the right side of the fashion fabric or it shrinks their collar or it bubbles up? I know I know I'm quitting now...

I have a finished knitting project, I'll share when I have pictures.

Have a great weekend!

Burda WOF 5-2008 Dress 121 Review

Today I got to wear my red dress so I wanted to share it with you.

This dress looks very easy to construct but the bodice is very labor intensive. The facings construction takes a while to figure out, it was a great help to read Tany's description on her blog. Like her I thread traced the facings and did a lot of hand basting.



I eliminated the wrap like so many reviewers did; I had 3 yards of my knit and that was enough for the simple skirt. The waistband as designed also is a wrap but I couldn't figure out what the instructions were telling me to do and I had decided to cut a simple panel and add the ties to the side seams.



Make sure you stabilize the shoulders your preferred way, I used Seams Great, because the skirt adds a lot of weight.



I love my red dress!

Does this Jason Wu design look familiar?

Picture from michelleostyle.blogspot.com

I instantly noticed that the neckline in Mrs Obama's dress is just like the one in Burda 7517 which I made this summer.



The Jason Wu design seems to be cut at the waist with darts shaping the skirt as opposed to the shift style of the Burda that continues with the pleats that start at the neckline.

Pretty neat, no?

What I learned making up the muslin

Before I traced the pattern I read every review for this pattern over at Patternreview. One review mentioned no problems, others problems matching up the shoulder seam and notches on the sleeve and problems with the length of the sleeve. Thinking about it all I traced for my size, a combination of 10 and 14 and cut it the muslin. I did add to the back waist length, I figure I could always pinch it out if I didn't need it.

Okay, first the armscye and sleeve notches did not match up because when trying to pin the side seam from the hem up to the sleeve the underarm seam did not come together. On the other reviewers advice I placed the top of the sleeve cap notch 1.5 inches away from the shoulder seam towards the back;

this made the underarm seam match up perfectly, yay!

and also the notch on the back side of the sleeve also matched the notch on the back of the bodice.

However the sleeve seam now sewed up short on the back side.

At this point before trying to fix up the sleeve on my own I wrote to the Hot Patterns team, and about 10 minutes later I was in conversation to try to resolve my problem. After sending them pictures they told me to ease in the underarm seam and see what happened. I did and all is well.

A few important things to note about this design:

- the shoulder seam is not at the top of the shoulder but down to the front by 1.5 inches, you realize this once you try the muslin on, and that is why the top of the cap needs to be towards the back from this "shoulder" seam

-the easing of the sleeve seam as directed by Trudy (from Hot Patterns) shapes the sleeve to give it the natural shape of the relaxed arm/semi-bent elbow. Maybe a more experienced seamstress would have realized that is what needed to be done, I just didn't see it.

- the ease of the sleeve around the forearm is minimal, I don't know if you can tell but my left arm has the sleeve that I added 1 inch to.




Conclusion:

I like this style on me, I will proceed to the fashion fabric next!!