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Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Burda WOF 9/2005 102



I have completed my muslin with the standard alterations I make: I added to the back waist length and I traced size 38 at the neckline, shoulders and armhole, 40 at the chest and from the waist down a 42. I usually trace a 40 at the hip but it was mentioned in the Great Coat Sew along blog (sorry but it is only open to those participating)that there was not enough ease in this area I decided to go up. I am wearing a sweater underneath, I rarely wear jackets under coats and therefore don't need the extra ease for that.

I measured the ease at the hip and thought I had plenty (46 in) but I forgot this was a double breasted coat and as you can tell from the pictures I have no ease in the hip area.

Without the shoulder pads I thought I would need a forward shoulder adjustment but with the pads I don't think so, what is your opinion?

These pictures have a 3/8 inch shoulder pad in:






I did not add walking ease. Is it recommended for a double breasted coat?In Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina she does not make this distinction and if it is recommended in this coat pattern to include the wedge in CF up to the neckline would cut right through the "bib" and therefore alter its shape.

I marked the welt pockets which will be covered by tabs but somehow I missed since the two parts (the welt pocket cuts across the seam line) do not match. Burda has you mark the welt according to your size on the side panel and then to join the pattern pieces and extend it to the front. I did that but did not turn out :o

I don't see any other issues in the fit but that is why I joined this great sew-along ...for all the extra eyes to appraise the fit!

After I receive comments on my fit I will add the sleeves.

2 comments:

  1. Lissette .- a good beginning for this great coat. I am sure that is fantastic. greetings, Paco

    Un buen comienzo para este abrigo. Estoy seguro que quedará fantástico.

    Saludos.

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  2. Oooh, I love a double-breasted coat. It looks like there's a big slit up the back; in that case, I wouldn't add any extra walking ease. You're right that it will mess up the line if you do.

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