Showing posts with label Burda patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Burda patterns. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 14, 2020

Burda Style Magazine 8/2014 #128 Coat

Last spring I finished my second tailored coat (here are the posts that followed my journey into my first coat making which was part of a sew-along many years ago). The fit on this coat was a lot more relaxed than the first coat I made so the tailoring was softer. I did it with fusible interfacing and some machine "pad stitching". As usual I depend on the book Tailoring - The classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jackewhenever I tackle any type of tailoring.


La primavera pasada terminé otro abrigo. El primero que hice fue parte de un "sew along" que me ayudó muchísimo (here pueden ver el proceso en el link "here") Esta vez los detalles de sastre no fueron tan intensivos como en el abrigo anterior, usé entretelas fijadas con calor en lugar de con puntos a mano. Como siempre usé como referencia el libro Tailoring - The classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacke








Shell without lining


Burda instructions have you cut the undercollar in one piece. I had a feeling that it was better to cut in two pieces on the bias and Tany (read her wonderful blog) answered my question on Instagram and confirmed that it allows for better roll of the cloth.


Las instrucciones the Burda te guían a cortar la pieza  del cuello en una pieza. En mi experiencia es mejor cortar el cuello al bies y en dos pedazos para que encaje mejor. Le pregunté a Tany (lean su blog, es maravillloso) por su opinión y me dijo que ella siempre transforma los cuellos de Burda a dos piezas.




There's a dart under the collar that adds shape and which I have seen in other designs. This is the kind of detail that I love about Burda patterns.


Hay una pinza debajo del cuello. Este detalle ayuda con el entalle y es una de las razones por las que me encantan los patrones de Burda.







The fabrics are a wool coating, silk lining and cotton flannel. I lightly quilted the flannel to the silk to add extra warmth.


Las telas son tela de abrigo de lana, seda para el forro y franela de algodón. Yo con puntadas alrededor de ciertas flores del estampado uní el forro a la franela para agregar insulación al abrigo.



You can see the quilting in the pictures of the hem below.

Pueden ver las puntadas en las fotos de abajo



The inseam pockets are topstitiched to the front.

Los bolsillos llevan pespuntes al frente del abrigo.



The back pleat had me scratching my head for a bit but it look different than I had made before.

La construcción de la abertura de atrás me confundió un poco porque es distinta a lo que he hecho anteriormente.


Here is the final look

Aquí ven como se ve


And here how it looks inside before attaching the lining

Aquí ven como se ve por adentro antes del forro



I followed the instructions from Paukshte Sewing Workshop (link is to part two on finishing the hem). I'm loving the results! Highly recommend these videos.


Seguí las instrucciones de Paukshte Sewing Workshop (Parte II que cubre como hacer los dobladillos). ¡Me encanta como quedó! Les recomiendo estos videos.



To keep the clean lines of this design I chose to keep the closures as shown in the magazine. I used large beautiful snaps.


Para mantener el estilo simple de este diseño agregué broches de presión como recomienda Burda. Estos broches bellos los encontré en New York.






Next post I will include pictures of the final product on me. Of course they are also available on Instagram.

La próxima vez les enseño fotos del abrigo puesto. También pueden verlas en Instagram.



Monday, April 07, 2014

Theatre Sewing

Beauty and the Beast was a success. We had 6 shows and 5 were sold out. It was by far the most exhausting of all the shows I have been involved in, but on opening night when everything came together the students performance, the music, the tech and the costumes...what a thrill!

La Bella y la Bestia fue un éxito! De las 6 funciones 5 se vendieron completamente. De todos los expectáculos de que he participado ¡éste por poco acaba conmigo! Pero una vez que se abren las cortinas de la noche de estreno, todo se olvida cuando veo lo bien que todo ha quedado.



 So what did I make? I made Belle's blue dress, Mrs Potts apron and the wolves' hoods (12 of them!).

¿Qué yo creé? El vestido azul de Belle, el delantal y sombrero de Mrs Potts y doce capuchas de lobos.



McCalls 6793 was used for the neckline and originally for the sleeves.  The sleeves ended were so binding I replaced them with new sleeves made the pattern from the Dorothy dress (which I made for the same student) and I narrowed the shoulders and lowered the armhole for a good fit. I do not recommend this pattern except for the neckline which was pretty and exactly what I was looking for.

The skirt which I attached to the top, was recycled from a dress in the theatre closet. I shortened it and added the lace ruffle.

The corset (Simplicity 5582) worked great. I added the zipper in the back, trim to the neckline and created a "faux" lace up. I also added flannel as an interlining to give it body. I did exhaggerate the point in the front so that it would show better on stage.

The apron is my own, just a rectangle with ties and lots of trim :-)


Usé McCalls 6793 para la blusa la cuál pegué a la salla que era parte de un vestido que teníamos ya en el closet. La salla la hice más corta y le agregué el encaje. El patrón de la blusa no le recomiendo excepto para el cuello pues las mangas quedaron muy apretadas y el hombro se caía. Paré cortando el hombro y quité las mangas. Usé el patrón de Dorothy y corté nuevas mangas (ya yo había hecho ese vestido para la misma estudiante el año pasado).

El corset (Simplicity 5582) fue perfecto. Le agregué el zipper atrás, el encaje en el cuello y inventé el frente para que pareciera de verdad.

El delantal me lo inventé, un rectangulo con muchos adornos.


Mrs Potts apron was made from Simplicity 5961(it seems to be OOP) . I added a lining and an interlining of flannel to give it body. The pink is purchased bias binding. The fabric is from Joann's home section. The hat is from my colonial costume (see link below) with an added pink bow trim.


El delantal de Mrs Potts lo hice de Simplicity 5961. Agregué forro y franela para darle más cuerpo. Lo terminé con cinta al bies que compré. El sombrero ya estaba hecho, parte de mi disfraz colonial, sólo le agregué el lazo.








 For the wolves hoods I used Simplicity 2853. I looked at many pictures of wolves before drawing the ears for the pattern. I used felt for the hood (we needed a cheap fabric) and I splurged on the small amount of white fur for the inner part.



 Para las capuchas usé Simplicity 2853, miré muchas fotos de lobos antes de dibujar las orejas para el patrón. Usé felpa para la capucha (necesitabamos tela económica) y agregué piel blanca en el centro.

 Here are some backstage shots.






 Isn't this a fantastic piece?





What did I enhance? Belle's yellow ballgown was very pale so I made a collar and added a sash to the skirt of a very bright embroidered organza.


¿Qué mejoré? El vestido amarillo de Belle era muy pálido así que le hice un cuello y le agregué a la salla un adorno de organza bordada.

 For the neckline I used Burda 2479 as a base with some modifications to fit the dress I was working with. I love how it came out, it framed the student's face beautifully and the back fluttered when she waltzed. Because of these modifications we didn't have to pay for this dress.


Para el cuello usé Burda 2479 como base y lo modifiqué para que le quedara bien al vestido. Me encantó como le quedaba el color a la cara de la estudiante y cuando bailaba el cuello atrás se movía de lo más lindo. A la señora le gustó tanto que no nos cobró el alquiler del vestido.

We had a tea before the last mattinee

With my husband's help ( he created a perfect little platform that held the feathers straight up and in place) we added the feathers to the hat that Babette (the feather duster) wore. I also enhanced her dress (which was rented) with more feather boas.


Con la ayuda de mi esposo le agregué plumas a un sombrero para Babette (el plumero). Al vestido que alquilamos también le agregué más plumas.


Another mom and I also repaired, ironed and enhanced most every costume we rented. The enchanted objects were in poor shape and needed lots of love; we had 10 teacups ( we wired the rims for better shape), about 15 silver ware pieces (straps were redone and fitted to the students) salt and pepper (body pieces were falling apart, so we took them apart and fixed them).  I replaced zippers, fixed seams, took in costumes, let out costumes...you get the picture.

La cantidad de trabajo que se llevó esta producción fue increíble. Con la ayuda de otra mamá reparamos todo tipo de disfráz. Teníamos 10 tazas a las cuales les agregamos alambre para darle mejor forma, las piezas de cubiertos tenían unas tiras para aguantarlos al cuerpo que tuvieron que rehacerse, etc. No sé cuantos zippers paré cambiando, ajusté, agrandé...bueno ya se imaginan.



For this show I also took on finding costume sources and dealing with the lady that we ended up using because she had great costumes for reasonable prices. She also liked what I made and bought from us Babette's hat, Mrs Potts apron and hat and the wolves' hoods! We kept Belle's dress, too much work went into that dress, I would never get a fair prize plus we should be able to use it in another production.

Además para esta producción tuve la responsabilidad primero de encontrar el vestuario y después ser la que me entendía con la señora que nos alquiló. A ella le gustó tanto lo que hice que compró el sombrero de Babette, el delantal y sombrero de Mrs Potts y las capuchas de los lobos.

Here are some shots of the show

Babette's hat looked wonderful with the enhanced dress




Do you recognize the dress on the student second from right? Yes my colonial gown has now been on stage.

I hope you enjoyed learning about my experience, I sure had fun!


Espero que hayan disfrutado leer acerca de mi aventura en el teatro, ¡me divertí muchísimo!

Monday, June 03, 2013

Burda 7866

 Here is the top I showed you a preview of in my last post after I took it in in the lower band. This pattern has more ease than I'm used to in Burda patterns; of course better to have too much than the opposite =O . I like how it looks with the lower bodice piece hugging the body. In the pictures below I don't know if you can see the looser initial fit, but I can feel a difference when I wear it.


In this last picture I wanted to show you the pretty bell sleeves.
This pattern was a gift from Andrea two years ago, I finally made it Andrea! I love the boat neck because it does not show underwear straps. I will not be able to wear it in the hot summer, the knit I used is a poly. I can only wear sleeveless garments made out of polyester in the summer. I do love this print which I purchased at Kashi's during PR weekend in NYC. I have enough left to make a simple summer dress.

Sunday, February 17, 2013

A quick update

I finished Dorothy! And I did not take a single picture! This is how crazy things have been! But don't worry there will be plenty of pictures when the show starts. I did all the binding like I wanted and it turned out perfect and a perfect fit! The actress was thrilled.

I will show you the bolero I'm still working on for Glinda to wear. It looks great with the dress we are using. I will take pictures soon. Here is the pattern Burda 7686. It turns out while I have tons of bolero patterns they were all for knits and I really didn't have the time to think about allowing  ease and so on, so I bought one for wovens.



It turns out I won't be making the lion's costume which gives me more time for the 18 capelets I am making for the Poppies to wear to simulate being covered with snow. I will be making view A from this super cute reprint of a 1948 pattern.



Can I tell you what a wonderful chaotic, fun, and exhilarating day I had yesterday? The lady who has the majority of the costumes we use came in and we fitted the majority of the cast (close to a 100!) Later will come adding those details that finish a look and repairing and final fittings. I am very lucky to have the help of another mom who is creative as well as fun and easy to get along with and she can also handle a needle when necessary!

I apologize for my lack of commenting on your blogs, I will have a lot to read when the craziness dies down! I hope that you are all well and creating some wonderful garments for me to admire later on!

Thursday, August 23, 2012

Burda 7364




I continue sewing for summer I guess I'm not ready to let it go yet. I bought this pattern last year but didn't get around to making it and now I was inspired to use leftover from another Burda dress and an ITY knit that I purchased during NY PR weekend.




I love how easy to wear this dress is. I inserted elastic at the waist instead of the elastic/cord combination that the pattern instructs you to do.

I have plans to make up the cardigan also.

I also took some ease off the bodice since when I tried it on there was just too much around the armhole; if you look at the picture that it's how it is designed but I didn't like it on me like that.


I also raised the neckline almost an inch.


 
Neckline binding
 

 
Pattern matching, not perfect but close enough ;-)