Thursday, September 25, 2008
Construction Details of Burda WOF 3/2008 116
Ignore the button, it is not the one I will use on the dress.
This dress as designed does not include a lining, I wanted a lining in part because my fabric, a rayon with a crepe texture, was semi-transparent and I didn't want to wear a slip. I just cut two dresses one of the fashion fabric and one in Bemberg. After constructing both separetedly (24 fish eye darts in total!), I basted both together at the neckline and armholes.
I made the bindings for the front slit, neckline and armholes using the wonderful gadget you see in the picture. I bought it for quilting but I have used it more in fashion sewing.
The binding was applied first to the front slit, then around the neckline enclosing the seam allowance (of both lining and fashion fabric) which had been trimmed to 3/8 in and and the top of the zipper. The seam allowances at the armhole were also covered with binding after attaching the sleeve/ruffle.
Applying seam binding around armhole
The sleeve/ruffle will show the wrong side if not doubled. I chose to do it as indicated in the pattern. As you can see is hard to tell the wrong/right side in my fabric. The hem was finished with a satin stitch.
Here is how the inside looks with the full lining. I will post a picture with me wearing the dress after this weekend, since the wedding I'm going to is on Saturday.