Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Simplicity 4500 Jacket Muslin
When I chose to make this jacket I decided to experiment with certain fitting issues, not that I am totally dissatisfied how the jackets I have made but I wanted to do some tweaking.
I traced armhole length of the size 12 but kept the shoulder line and neckline at 8. Although I have a very narrow upper chest I am long waisted and I thought I could use a little more length above the bust and then add the rest that I need just above the waist. I think the muslin showed me that this was a good thing to do, even the bust point fits right (on the last Simplicity jacket I made I had to lower the bus point). Even though I usually do fine tracing a 12 at the bust and a 14 at the waist and hip, this jacket was just too snug which I sort of expected because a reviewer in PR had found the pattern with little ease. So I let out 1/8 in at each princess seam starting at the waist (total 1/4 x 4 ) and 1/4 at each side seam (total 1/2 x 2). As you can see on the pictures it is still a close fitting jacket.
The sleeves are two piece and again as an experiment I used Nancy Ziemman's method of rotating the pieces to increase only the upper sleeve by 1/2 inch and see what results I get. I modified the sleeve pattern and now I need to cut it out of muslin and set it in.
I'll let you know how it goes!