Monday, March 15, 2010
Burda WOF 9/2005 102 Coat
Can I tell you how excited I am that the coat is finished? Let me count the ways...Seriously, I'm thrilled with this coat! The fabric is the most luxurious I have ever experience, no itchy wool here. The fabric is a (I believe) wool/cashmere/camel blend, which I bought at PA fabrics back when there was an outlet a couple of miles from my house;they had this wonderful sales where if you bought over a $100 worth of fabric you payed for half, yeap those were the days.
My very last struggles had to do with the hem and back vent. After I had bagged the lining and got it all through the sleeve, I tried it on and the hem was doing all sort of weird things. I had to rip the hem stitches to see what was going on in the construction. It turns out after I attached the wigwam according to the instructions in a Threads magazine, I neglected to actually sew a hem, duh!! Once I corrected that I sewed the hem by hand this time and all was well. The way my lining is going around the top of the vent does not satisfy me, but at this point I will let it be until the coat comes out next season to be worn. Even after reading tutorials I'm having a hard time visualizing how the lining should be attached to the vent, so I need to put it aside.
I'm also thrilled with the silk lining which came from G street Fabrics. It reminds me of the old fashion linings I used to see in my grandfather's and my father's jackets; all their clothes were made by tailors, those were the days.
What I learned during this project:
1. Bound buttonholes
2. Welt pockets with flap
3. Padstitching undercollar and lapels
4. Tailoring techniques in general, as I have discussed in previous posts, including using hair canvas.
5. Applying wigan to hems
6. During collar construction, adjusting for turn of the cloth.
As far as changing the pattern, besides adding all the tailoring, I cut the under collar as a two piece cut on the bias. Of course I had a lot of help from the Great Coat Sew Along as my muslin was analyzed by Marji.
Anyways I know you have heard plenty about this coat so I'm sure you are glad to see it finished too! I will have a brand new coat to wear next season.