More tracing

While I wait for my machine to return I'm continuing with tracing patterns. I finished the knit pants from Burda and Paco's lovely jacket pattern. Even though his pattern comes ready to cut I went ahead and traced the pieces that I think might need alterations. For example, the maximum hip size is 38 and I'm a 40. I also usually have to add length to the bodice so I added 1 inch to the bodice length. I wanted to preserve the pattern for another muslin if the first one is not perfect.


Next I'm working on Butterick 5523. I'm going up a size in the bodice since the pattern has no ease there. I'm using a ponte knit and I don't want this dress tight across my chest.

Separation anxiety

Yesterday I traced the above pattern from Burda Style August. I have wanted knit pants that looked stylish but had the comfort of knit to wear with boots this winter; after seeing this pattern made by Tany I decided to give it a try so I bought from Fabric.com a cut of their Sophia double-knit in black. I'm hoping that the fabric has a nice recovery so that the pants won't bag out at the knees.

If you are wondering at the title...today I left my sewing machine for overdue maintenance. I had to drive 35 min to get to a certified Bernina technician and it will be gone for 7-10 days. I will use my time for doing all the prepwork for the knit pants and Paco's pattern. I keep going back and forth on what fabric to use for the jacket...I'll let you know

I wanted to share

This week I received the books you see above. They are beautifully illustrated with enchanting words thought of by Elisa Gallego Picard, published in Spain in English and Spanish. Why am I bringing them to your attention? Well I wrote the English translation!!

Take a look at her website to enjoy her art. I am very proud to have collaborated with her.



Esta semana recibí los libros que ven en la foto. Las ilustraciones son bellas y las palabras encantadoras, todo creado por Elisa Gallego Picard. Los libros están publicados en España en Español e Inglés. ¿Por qué se lo digo a mis lectores? Porque yo escribí la traducción al Inglés!!

Visiten su sitio web para que disfruten de su bello arte. Estoy muy orgullosa de haber colaborado con ella.

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Just in case, I do not receive any compensation by letting you know or directing you to her site; my only compensation is sharing (and bragging a little!) with you

A Burda skirt

Oops! I neglected to say that this is Burda Style 11-2009 #120

Like most of us I buy RTW to fill certain holes in my wardrobe but one item I refuse to buy is a skirt. Skirts are so easy to make plus I can make them fit my waist AND my hips. Right now I have an olive cotton pencil Patrones skirt that I reach for all the time so I thought I needed to add at least another "go with almost everything skirt".



I love the above skirt, I think it will look fantastic with boots. I have the wool tweed in the hot dryer with towels, trying Pam's method for pre-shrinking that everyone raves about.

Later I will let you see the wool, it is really gorgeous. I bought it at PA Fabric Outlet before it closed in Catonsville, MD.

Hope you have a sewing weekend!

Hot Patterns Wrapture Jacket

I have been writing about this jacket for a while, so I wanted to give you a short summary of my experience.

This is an OOP Hot Patterns design, I think it was one of their first. There were errors in the notches and I think what made it worse is that there isn't a good description of the jacket's design and not an accurate illustration. Having said that I received excellent customer service from the owners, who quickly responded to my email and helped me understand how certain pieces were supposed to fit.



I used a very nice cotton twill from Michael's fabrics, part of a bundle. The lining is a very lightweight cotton. The buttons came from my stash and I don't remember where I bought them. For the topstitching I used embroidery floss, using 4 strands together. I did not add shoulder pads, I wanted the jacket to have a soft look. I did add some light tailoring to the collar for a better shape around the neck.




click to enlarge and see machine stitching added for shaping

My jacket is meant to be worn over a tank top or other lightweight tops. The sleeves even though I added extra ease, are still pretty fitted. After the jacket was completed I added some more topstitching, this time around the fronts and all around the hems.



Am I happy with this jacket? I'm thrilled!, the downside? the days are getting cold so this jacket will have to wait until spring to see more action. Yesterday was a beautiful day here so I had the opportunity to have my son take outdoor shots.



If you missed my previous posts and want to know more details I listed the links below.

Hot Patterns Wrapture Jacket firs post
Hot Patterns Wrapture Jacket second post
Hot Patterns Wrapture Jacket third post
Hot Patterns Wrapture Jacket fourth post

So what is next? I found that I need a mid-weight jacket for the cold days that still don't require a winter coat but are too cold for denim jackets and the jacket I just made (ha!). However I think I'll first tackle a simpler project like a dress or skirt. You'll be the first to know!

Last update on jacket, before completion

I am hopefully going to attach the lining and finish the jacket today, depending on how I feel. But I thought I show you that I finished the bound buttonholes, attached the cuffs and collar and constructed the lining.





Next up I'll show you the finished jacket!

A Beautiful Fall Day

The picture of a happy (blurry)dog

I have been feeling cold symptoms for the past couple of days, but on the weekend I was fine and we got to do a beautiful walk. Not much to say just enjoy the colors of the season.

Construction details, Hot Patterns jacket

At this point the jacket back, cuffs and pockets have been constructed and topstitched. Topstitching through the heavy multiple twill layers went slow and made my fingers ache, but I like how it looks so far.



In looking at the pictures I got to check on the stitching of the pocket it looks a little puckery.



I added a back stay to give the dropped shoulder area a little more support, just used a piece of washed muslin.

Next up is the bound buttonholes but I have to decide on buttons first.

Changes, part II

So my son had a great time Saturday. He wore his father's vintage tie and clip and I was proud of how he handled himself.

There was a photo session before they headed out to dinner where the parents could ooh and aahh at the kids.

Here he is with his best friend, they have been since kindergarten.



Here they are at 5,



they are still adorable, don't you think?

Changes

For the first time this year, my son who is a high school junior is going to the Homecoming dance. This summer he cut his hair, he became a texting expert, has joined clubs and his social circle has expanded. Wow. Today I need to go buy him a jacket and dress shoes since he outgrew them and then I will probably end up playing chauffeur on Saturday since his friends are going to be taking pictures, going out to dinner and then going to the dance (and believe me I'm glad it will be me doing the driving).



A couple of weeks ago my brother and his family came to visit and I had the inmense pleasure of spending time with my nephew. He is the cutest! Last time I saw him he wasn't walking on his own yet, this time around everyone was exhausted chasing after him...yeap I remember those days.



Let's hear it for the boys!

IK Spring 2008 Flutter Sleeve Cardigan FO

I started this project back in March and it took longer to finish that I anticipated, but isn't always the case with knitting?

While there are no sleeves to set in there are a lot of other details, like the front bands which are knitted separately and then sewn in, as well as the sleeve bands and the tabs. I lengthened the bodice above the waist to let the ribbing fall on my natural waist (I added 1 in to bodice and front bands). I also used a larger size to cast on the skirt and reduced enough stitches above the waist to knit a smaller size.



The buttonholes turned out a tad to big for my buttons so I'm going to crotchet around the openings to close them in, I spent all day yesterday trying to keep the cardigan closed; it really is not meant to be worn unopened.

The yarn is Elann Bamboo Fusion, which as the name implies is a bamboo blend which is very drapey and feels really good against the skin.



I'm very happy with the outcome, I like the color and I love the sleeves. After you invest so much time in a project it feels great when it turns out well :-)

Thank you! Thank you!

Well, I decided on using number 2 although the dark blue was a very strong second. What decided me was extending the wearability of this jacket, I wanted at least one more jacket besides the denim one I own that could be used with almost every other outfit.

Suggestions anyone?

First excuse my poorly executed sample but I would like your opinion as to which color way would look better on the Hot Patterns jacket.

Number 1 and 3 are a slightly different shade of light tan. Number 2 matches the fabric pretty well. Four and five are deep blues in different shades that also pick up the colors in the lining.

My original idea was the lighter tans but now I'm not sure. I plan to hand topstitch on the band and edges. I'm using pearl cottton embroidery floss with 4 strands together.

Suggestions anyone?

Hot patterns Wrapture Jacket - continued

So the twill is cut and so is the lining and today I fused the interfacing. Did you know that fusing interfacing is the step I most dislike about sewing? This is the point where my construction progress stops while I brace myself, silly isn't? Picking the right interfacing makes me nervous; unless one makes the fabric as stiff as a board and the other causes no effect all the others are in between and so you need to go with a feeling...I think it is the engineer in me that rebels in this non-logical selection. It is not that I'm not educated on interfacing I have read and keep reading about it. Anyways I tested two both from Fashion Sewing Supply and I went with the Pro-Weft fusible. I like how it applied and now this step is done. I have also used Pam's tricot and have been very happy with it.

And continuing with the interfacing topic. Have you notice that the word "interfacing" has never been mentioned on Project Runway? There is no mention of buying it or using it? Well I figure the producers think is a term that non-sewers would have no clue as to what it is. But it could produce drama, what about if they fuse it to the right side of the fashion fabric or it shrinks their collar or it bubbles up? I know I know I'm quitting now...

I have a finished knitting project, I'll share when I have pictures.

Have a great weekend!

Burda WOF 5-2008 Dress 121 Review

Today I got to wear my red dress so I wanted to share it with you.

This dress looks very easy to construct but the bodice is very labor intensive. The facings construction takes a while to figure out, it was a great help to read Tany's description on her blog. Like her I thread traced the facings and did a lot of hand basting.



I eliminated the wrap like so many reviewers did; I had 3 yards of my knit and that was enough for the simple skirt. The waistband as designed also is a wrap but I couldn't figure out what the instructions were telling me to do and I had decided to cut a simple panel and add the ties to the side seams.



Make sure you stabilize the shoulders your preferred way, I used Seams Great, because the skirt adds a lot of weight.



I love my red dress!

Does this Jason Wu design look familiar?

Picture from michelleostyle.blogspot.com

I instantly noticed that the neckline in Mrs Obama's dress is just like the one in Burda 7517 which I made this summer.



The Jason Wu design seems to be cut at the waist with darts shaping the skirt as opposed to the shift style of the Burda that continues with the pleats that start at the neckline.

Pretty neat, no?

What I learned making up the muslin

Before I traced the pattern I read every review for this pattern over at Patternreview. One review mentioned no problems, others problems matching up the shoulder seam and notches on the sleeve and problems with the length of the sleeve. Thinking about it all I traced for my size, a combination of 10 and 14 and cut it the muslin. I did add to the back waist length, I figure I could always pinch it out if I didn't need it.

Okay, first the armscye and sleeve notches did not match up because when trying to pin the side seam from the hem up to the sleeve the underarm seam did not come together. On the other reviewers advice I placed the top of the sleeve cap notch 1.5 inches away from the shoulder seam towards the back;

this made the underarm seam match up perfectly, yay!

and also the notch on the back side of the sleeve also matched the notch on the back of the bodice.

However the sleeve seam now sewed up short on the back side.

At this point before trying to fix up the sleeve on my own I wrote to the Hot Patterns team, and about 10 minutes later I was in conversation to try to resolve my problem. After sending them pictures they told me to ease in the underarm seam and see what happened. I did and all is well.

A few important things to note about this design:

- the shoulder seam is not at the top of the shoulder but down to the front by 1.5 inches, you realize this once you try the muslin on, and that is why the top of the cap needs to be towards the back from this "shoulder" seam

-the easing of the sleeve seam as directed by Trudy (from Hot Patterns) shapes the sleeve to give it the natural shape of the relaxed arm/semi-bent elbow. Maybe a more experienced seamstress would have realized that is what needed to be done, I just didn't see it.

- the ease of the sleeve around the forearm is minimal, I don't know if you can tell but my left arm has the sleeve that I added 1 inch to.




Conclusion:

I like this style on me, I will proceed to the fashion fabric next!!

Hot Patterns Wrapture jacket, first steps

The red Burda dress is done, pictures coming soon, so I started to work on a muslin for the above jacket pattern. I have never used this company before so I need to figure out how it fits me. I have always liked this design and I have a beautiful cotton twill from Michael's fabrics which I think will work well with this relaxed fit. Right now I'm thinking to do hand top stitching instead of the binding.

I will keep you updated of the progress.

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Parting shot


Winter (After Arcimboldo) by Philip Haas at the National Gallery of Art

Recently I had the opportunity to visit the National Gallery of Art during the week, what a luxury, and I was able to wander and look at my own pace. When I came upon this sculpture of course I had to take a closer look. A special exhibit of Arcimboldo (16th century painter), who is famous for his "portraits" was due to open that weekend.